Author:
Chenoa Wilcox

Chenoa Wilcox is a member of THN Dream Team and the creator behind jellyKNITTING, the creative outlet where she shares her creations and publishes her patterns. When she isn’t knitting or crocheting, Chenoa is either working in a biology lab, playing with snails in hot-springs (does that even count as graduate school?), or trying to train her cats to stop stealing her yarn. Chenoa is slowly replacing all the fast-fashion pieces in her closet with hand-made knit and crochet items, from sweaters to dresses to hats and scarves.

Xylocopa Sweater Knitting Pattern

Maker
3/29/2020

Hi all! Chenoa here of @jellyknitting back on THN blog to share with you one of my biggest labors of love - the Xylocopa Sweater. Since I first made my Bombus Tee , I have loved the knit honeycomb stitch. It's texture and squish factor are, in my opinion, totally unmatched. After making that tee, I knew a sweater would have to be born. When I first got to check out THN Main Squeeze yarn, it was a dream come true: 6mm needles, the perfect color, amazing stitch definition, no wool (so no hives for those of you, like me, with wool sensitivities). This sweater was made with fall and spring in mind - breathable, but cozy and stylish! Read on to learn how to knit your own Xylocopa Sweater and to experience the magic that is the knit honeycomb stitch in THN Main Squeeze.

Supplies and Tools

All supplies can be found online at JOANN here!

The Hook Nook “Main Squeeze” Yarn: Marigold Fields, 4 (4, 5, 6, 6) (7, 7, 8, 8) balls

6 mm knitting needles for working both large and small circumferences in the round

The Hook Nook Stitch Markers

The Hook Nook Darning Needle

Scrap yarn or stitch holders

Size

Stitch counts, row counts, and other relevant information is noted as follows:

• XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

• Intended to fit bust sizes: 30” (34”, 38”, 42”, 46”) (50”, 54”, 58”, 62”)

Gauge

12 sts x 32 rows = 4” x 4” in honeycomb stitch (without blocking/stretching)

Abbreviations and Required Skills

• Cast on (co)

• Knit (k)

• Knit 1 below (k1b)

• Purl (p)

• Place marker (pm)

• Knit into the front and back of a stitch (kfb)

• Slip-slip-knit (ssk)

• Knit 2 together (k2tog)

• Knit 2 together through the back look (k2tbl)

• Purl 2 together (p2tog)

• Slip marker (sm)

• Bind off (bo)

• Stitch(es) (st/sts)

Stitch Explanations

Honeycomb stitch instructions in the round (odd number of sts):

1. p all sts (ws).

2. *k1, k1b (k1b means knit 1 below). Continue directions within * * to the end of the round (RS).

3. p all sts.

4. *k1b, k1*. Continue directions within * * until end of row.

How to measure gauge in honeycomb stitch: (Wilcox03 picture here)

1. Start by picking a stitch that has a clear V shape, like the one marked with a red V on the image shown here.

2. To measure stitch gauge, travel right from your starting V. Every time you come to an identical stitch, you have traveled 2 stitches. The red arrows give an example of how to do this.

3. To measure row gauge, travel up from your starting V. Each time you come to an identical V, you will have traveled 4 rows. The yellow arrows give an example of how to do this.

Directions:

This knit bottom-up sweater uses simple stitch combinations for unique textures! Perfect for breathable but cozy layers, this sweater has gorgeous drape with a totally unique look. The Xylocopa Sweater is constructed using The Hook Nook “Main Squeeze” yarn. If you are between sizes, consider sizing down.

Please post pictures of your finished products, tag me in them, and use the #jellyKNITTING and #XylocopaSweater so I can see your beautiful work! If you use this pattern, please credit me as the creator.

Pattern

Body

Cast on 108 (120, 132, 144, 156) (168, 180, 192, 204) sts. PM and join in round.

• Round 1: k3, pm, p3, *k3, p3* repeating for the next 48 (54, 60, 66, 72) (78, 84, 90, 96) sts, pm, k3, pm, p3, *k3, p3* repeating to end of round.

• Rounds 2- 10 (10, 10, 10, 10) (12, 12, 12, 12): *k 3, p 3*. Continue directions within * * to end of round. Sm each time you reach one.

• Rows 11 (11, 11, 11, 11) (13, 13, 13, 13)- 14 (14, 14, 14, 14) (16, 16, 16, 16): begin working honeycomb stitch:

o A - Row 11 (11, 11, 11, 11) (13, 13, 13, 13): p all sts.

o B - Row 12 (12, 12, 12, 12) (14, 14, 14, 14): k3, sm, *k1b, k1* until next marker, sm, k3, sm, *k1b, k1* to the end of the round.

o C - Row 13 (13, 13, 13, 13) (15, 15, 15, 15): p all sts.

o D - Row 14 (14, 14, 14, 14) (16, 16, 16, 16): k3, sm, *k1, k1b* until next marker, sm, k3, sm, *k1, k1b* to the end of the round.

• Continue in honeycomb stitch, repeating rows A-D until you reach your piece measures 8” (8”, 9”, 9”, 9”) (10”, 10”, 11”, 11”) from the cast on edge. End with step D.

o If you want your sweater to be longer, continue knitting in honeycomb stitch until you reach your desired length.

• Place your work to the side, and begin working the sleeves.

Sleeves

Cast on 20 (24, 24, 28, 28) (32, 36, 36, 40) sts. PM and join in round.

• Round 1- 13 (13, 15, 15, 15) (15, 15, 15, 15): *k 2, p 2*. Continue directions within * * to end of round.

• Round 14 (14, 16, 16, 16) (16, 16, 16, 16): kfb into every st around, doubling your st count. Wilcox05 picture somewhere near here.

• Round 15 (15, 17, 17, 17) (17, 17, 17, 17): k all sts

• Continue to k all sts until you reach your piece measures 18” (19”, 20”, 20”, 20”) (20”, 20”, 20”, 20”) from the cast on edge.

o If you want your sleeves to be longer or shorter, knit in the round until you reach your desired length.

• Place your work to the side. Work these directions a second time for your other sleeve. Then, proceed with joining the sleeves.

Joining the Sleeves

You will pick back up from the body of your sweater, as if you are about to start the next round.

• Setup: Sm and place the first 3 sts from the body onto scrap yarn. Join the first sleeve and k to the last 3 sts. Place the last 3 sts from the first sleeve onto scrap yarn. Sm, and p all sts on the first side of the body. Sm and transfer the next 3 sts to scrap yarn. Join the next sleeve, and k to the last 3 sts. Place the last 3 sts from the second sleeve onto scrap yarn. Sm, then p all sts on the second side of the body. You should now have a marker at each join between the body and the sleeves, and you should have 51 (57, 63, 69, 75) (81, 87, 93, 99) sts on each half of the body and 37 (45, 45, 53, 53) (61, 69, 69, 77) on each sleeve.

• Round 1: sm, k to the last 2 sts before your next marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, *k1b, k1* until 3 sts remain before next marker, k1b, k2tog, sm, ssk, k until 2 sts remain before next marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, *k1b, k1* until 3 sts remain before next marker, k1b, k2tog, sm.

• Round 2: ssk, k to next marker, sm, p to next marker, sm, k to next marker, sm, p to next marker, sm. Wilcox06 somewhere around here

• Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until you have 19 (19, 23, 23, 27) (27, 27, 31, 31) sts left on each half of the body and 5 (7, 5, 7, 5) (7, 9, 7, 9) sts left on each sleeve. You will have a total of 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) (68, 72, 76, 80) sts.

• Neckline: *k2, p2* around for 6 rounds.

• Bind off loosely, or using your favorite stretchy bind off.

Finishing

• Using your sewing needle, graft the 3 sts from each sleeve to the matching sts from each side of the body, using a join such as kitchener stitch. Tie off, sew in ends.

• Weave in any other loose ends.

• Wash and block if desired, although not necessary with The Hook Nook “Main Squeeze” yarn.

• Enjoy your gorgeous new sweater!

I have been so happy to have a chance to bring this pattern to life, and I hope many of you love it as much as I do! I would love if you can tag pictures of your finished sweaters with #XylocopaSweater and share them with me on Instagram  or acebook . Feel free to check out my website for more of my work, and you can find my patterns on my Ravelry page. Find all the links to my social channels and website in the sidebar of this post!

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