Chenoa Wilcox

Chenoa Wilcox is a member of THN Dream Team and the creator behind jellyKNITTING, the creative outlet where she shares her creations and publishes her patterns. When she isn’t knitting or crocheting, Chenoa is either working in a biology lab, playing with snails in hot-springs (does that even count as graduate school?), or trying to train her cats to stop stealing her yarn. Chenoa is slowly replacing all the fast-fashion pieces in her closet with hand-made knit and crochet items, from sweaters to dresses to hats and scarves.

The Bellis Granny Square Crochet Pattern


Hi all! I’m Chenoa, THN Dream Team member, back to share a lovely new spring pattern with you - the Bellis Granny Square. The weather is warming up and with it, my love of all things plants!

If you have seen THN “Small Stuff” yarn around, you might have noticed the absolutely stunning color of Green Thumb. It just screams spring and summer to me, with that rich green. I knew as soon as I saw it that I wanted to create a floral design with Green Thumb as the background color.

The Bellis Granny Square looks great as a single square (did someone say coasters?) and is perfectly suited for a join-as-you-go style design too! As for me, I haven’t decided if I’m going to create a cardigan, a blanket, or something else entirely. Read on for the pattern, and I cannot wait to see how you use your flower squares!


Grab all the yarn to create this pattern HERE.

5mm crochet hook

3 colors of THN “Small Stuff” or similar yarn - I used the colors Green Thumb, Minimalist, and Warm Sunshine, but you can use any three that suit your fancy!

Darning needle (for sewing in ends)

Abbreviations and Required Skills

Stitch/stitches (st/sts)

Chain (ch)

Slip stitch (slst)

Yarn over (yo)

Double crochet (dc)

Double crochet cluster (cl)

Triple/treble crochet (trc)


Before you jump in, you need to know how to make the cl st

To work a cl, you will start to work a dc st, but stop before your final yo, leaving an extra loop on your hook. Once you have worked the indicated number of incomplete dc sts (number of loops on your hook should be equal to the number of incomplete dc sts plus 1 for your starting loop), you will finish the cluster by yo and pulling through all loops.

This pattern is worked over a total of 4 rounds. Gauge doesn’t matter as long as your stitches are comfortable. If you use a 5 mm crochet hook and the recommended yarn, your finished square will be just a bit smaller than 4 inches wide.


Your first round is the center of your flower

Round 1 - ch 3. Slst to the first ch to form a loop. Ch 3 (counts as your first dc), then dc 11 times into the center of your loop. Slst to the top st of your ch 3 to close round. You should have 12 dc sts, including your ch 3. Break yarn and fasten off.

Your second round is the petals, worked using the cluster stitch described above:

Round 2 - join with petal color between dc sts from previous round. Ch 2, work a 3-st cl in the same space, then ch 1. In the next space between dc sts from the previous round, work a 4-st cl and ch 1 after closing. Continue to work 4-st cl sts with a ch 1 after closing between each dc st from the previous round, until you have completed a total of 12 cl sts and 12 ch sts. Slst to the top of the first cl to close your round. Break yarn and fasten off.

Your third and fourth rounds are the background:

Round 3 - join with background color in the ch space between to cl sts. Ch 3 (counts as a dc). Work 3 dc sts into the following ch space between clusters. Work 3 dc sts into each ch space around until you reach your starting space. Dc only twice in the same space as your starting ch 3 (for a total of 3 sts including starting ch), then slst to the top of your starting ch to close the round. You will work round 4 in the spaces between these "sets" of 3 dc sts.

Round 4 - ch 3 (counts as your first dc), then dc 2 more times in the same space between dc groups from the previous round, ch 1. Into the next space between dc sets from the previous round, work the following to form your corner: 3 trc, ch 3, 3 trc, ch 1. Work 3 dc followed by ch 1 in each of the next two spaces to form your edge. Work a second corner in the next space. Work a second edge over the next 2 spaces. Work a third corner and a third edge over the next three spaces. Work a fourth corner in the next space. Now, work 3 dc into the final space, ch 1, and slst to the top of your starting ch to close your round. Break yarn and fasten off.

How to join-as-you-go: when working round 4, you can join your squares as you go to avoid seaming later! When you do this, you use a slst to replace a ch st. To start, you will work until the ch 3 in your first corner, ch 1, then slst to the corner of an already completed square instead of doing your second ch (make sure the right sides are both facing the same way!), then ch 1 and complete your corner. As you work the side, slst the side of the square you are working on to the complimentary ch space on the other square instead of working a ch 1 between sets of 3 dc. On your second corner, again slst your corners together instead of the second ch of your ch 3. As your piece grows, you’ll end up joining along more than one side. Be careful to always make sure the side you want facing “out” is facing the same direction on each of your squares!

I can’t decide if my piece will end up being a cardigan or a blanket, but I’ve still got some time to choose! I hope you love this square and create beautiful pieces with it. I would love if you can tag pictures with #BellisSquare and share them with me on instagram or facebook. Feel free to check out my website for more of my work, and you can find my patterns on my ravelry page.

Sending you and yours lots of love and hope some of you are getting some good crafting time in!

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