Author:
Chenoa Wilcox

Chenoa Wilcox is a member of THN Dream Team and the creator behind jellyKNITTING, the creative outlet where she shares her creations and publishes her patterns. When she isn’t knitting or crocheting, Chenoa is either working in a biology lab, playing with snails in hot-springs (does that even count as graduate school?), or trying to train her cats to stop stealing her yarn. Chenoa is slowly replacing all the fast-fashion pieces in her closet with hand-made knit and crochet items, from sweaters to dresses to hats and scarves.

Dasypus Customizable Duster by Chenoa Wilcox

Maker
10/22/2020

Hi everyone! I’m so pleased to be back on The Hook Nook Blog to share with you a new pattern - the Dasypus Duster. This pattern is really a 3-in-1 pattern: we will start with a basic duster vest, and you will have the option of adding a collar and/or sleeves. Worked in a granny stripe pattern, this piece is super cozy and a perfect spring or fall wardrobe staple. You can use one color or many colors, and you can customize the length, too!

Size

Stitch counts, row counts, and other relevant information is noted as follows:

  1. XS/S (M/L, XL/2XL, 3XL/4XL, 5XL/6XL)
  2. Intended to fit bust sizes 26”-34” (34”-42”, 42”-50”, 50”-58”, 58”-66”) with a finished bust measurement of approximately 38” (48”, 58”, 66”, 76”), excluding collar
  3. If you are between sizes or prefer a closer-fitting piece, size down. If you are at the large end of a size range and prefer a roomier piece, you can size up.

Supplies and Tools

  1. For a full-length duster including collar and sleeves (approximately 38” long from shoulder to bottom hem), you will need:
  2. Approximately 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) balls of The Hook Nook “Small Stuff” yarn in color A, or similar yarn
  3. Approximately 4 (4, 5, 6, 7) balls of The Hook Nook “Small Stuff” yarn in color B, or similar yarn
  4. To work in a single color, you will need approximately 8 (9, 11, 13, 15) total balls of The Hook Nook “Small Stuff” or similar yarn
  5. Note: you can choose not to work the collar or sleeves to decrease the amount of yarn required for this pattern.
  6. For a shorter cardigan including collar and sleeves (approximately 24” long from shoulder to bottom hem), you will need:
  7. Approximately 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) balls of The Hook Nook “Small Stuff” yarn in color A, or similar yarn
  8. Approximately 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) balls balls of The Hook Nook “Small Stuff” yarn in color B, or similar yarn
  9. To work in a single color, you will need approximately 5 (6, 8, 9, 10) total balls of The Hook Nook “Small Stuff” or similar yarn
  10. Note: you can choose not to work the collar or sleeves to decrease the amount of yarn required for this pattern.
  11. 5 mm crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge) 
  12. Sewing needle or ends weaver (for finishing)
  13. Gauge: 5 granny clusters x 8 rows = 4” x 4” (10 cm x 10 cm) in granny stripe
  14. To work a granny stripe pattern:
  15. Foundation: chain a multiple of 3 plus 5. 
  16. Row 1: work 3 dc into the 5th chain from your hook. Skip 2 sts, then work another 3 dc into the 3rd st. Continue skipping 2 sts then working 3 dc sts into the third until you reach the final st. You should be working  dc into this st. 
  17. Row 2: ch 3 to turn, then work 3 dc sts into the space between dc sets from the previous row. You will work your final set of 3 dc sts into the turning chain from the previous row.
  18. Repeat row 2 until your piece is your desired size. 

Skills and Abbreviations

  1. Chain (ch)
  2. Single crochet (sc)
  3. Double crochet (dc)
  4. Optional: foundation half-double crochet (fhdc)
  5. Stitch(es) (st/sts)

Pattern

Panels (make 2)

Before you begin, it is important to note that you can alter the length of your piece by altering the number of fhdc (or ch) sts you work in the beginning (must be a multiple of 3 +2). Altering this number is a great way to customize your piece, but it will impact how much yarn you need to complete it. If you use more sts, you will need more yarn. If you use less, you will need less yarn. 

  1. Fhdc 239 for a full-length duster, or 156 for a shorter cardigan that will sit closer to your hips. You can work a foundation ch if you prefer.
  2. Ch 3 to turn. 
  3. Row 1: work 3 dc sts into the second fhdc from your hook (5th ch from your hook, if you worked a foundation ch instead of fhdc). Skip 2 sts, then work 3 dc into the 3rd fhdc (or ch). Continue skipping 2 sts, then working 3 dc into the third across your row. Your final 3 dc will be worked into your first fhdc or ch st.
  4. Row 2: ch 3 to turn. Work 3 dc into each space between previous sets of dc sts from the row below. Your final 3 dc sts will be worked into the turning ch from the previous row.
  5. Repeat row 2 until you have completed 19 (24, 29, 33, 38) rows. 
  6. Color pattern: if you wish to follow the same striping scheme as pictured, you will work your piece as follows:
  7. Foundation: color A
  8. Row 1: color A
  9. Rows 2 and 3: color B
  10. Rows 4, 5, 6: color A
  11. Row 7: color B
  12. Rows 8, 9, 10: color A
  13. Continue working 2 rows B, 3 rows A, 1 row B, 3 rows A until your piece is as wide as the pattern indicates.
  14. Break yarn when you have completed the first panel.
  15. Repeat these instructions to create a second panel, but leave your yarn attached and move on to joining the panels.

Joining the panels and seaming the sides

To arrange your panels properly, you will start by laying them out as pictured in the diagram below. The starting fhdc or ch sts on each panel will be far apart from one another (red lines on the diagram), and the seam will be worked into the final rows of each panel. Your live yarn still attached to panel 2 (black curve) should be next to a ch 3 space in the corner of panel 1 (red circle). The ending point of panel 1 is indicated with a red curve for reference. 

We will be working the seam from where our yarn is attached to panel 2, and seaming just short of half way across the panels. You will stop seaming with approximately 2 inches (2 sets of 3 dc sts) remaining before you reach the middle; it is recommended that you mark the midpoint of each panel so you don’t accidentally seam too far. This seam forms the back of your piece and leaves a little extra room for your neck. The unattached halves of your panels will form the front of your piece. 

When joining the panels, you are welcome to simply use a long tail to seam up the pieces with a simple stitch. If you prefer a decorative seam, follow the instructions below. You can use a color that matches the last rows worked (as I did), or you can opt to use a different color if you prefer.

  1. Step 1: pick up and continue working with yarn from panel 2, ch 1
  2. Step 2: sc into the ch 3 spc on panel 1, ch 1
  3. Step 3: sc into the top of the second dc st on panel 2, ch 1 (you will have skipped over one dc st on this side)
  4. Step 4: sc into the top of the second dc st on panel 1, ch 1 (you will have skipped over one dc st on this side)
  5. Step 5: skip one st on panel 2, then sc into the next st and ch 1
  6. Step 6: skip one st on panel 1, then sc into the next st and ch 1
  7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until you are approximately 2” before the midpoint of your panels. End with a final sc st and break yarn. 

Now that your duster has a front and a back, we can seam the sides!

  1. To seam the sides, you will fold each panel in half to form the front and the back. You can use any seam you like (I used a whip stitch). I recommend using the same color yarn as your foundation row.
  2. You will start at the bottom by seaming the first st of your fhdc or foundation ch to the last st of your fhdc or foundation ch. 
  3. From there, you will continue seaming up along your foundation edge, leaving the middle sts unseamed for your arm hole. 
  4. If you want to add sleeves, you will want to make sure the remaining unseamed sts around the arm hole are a multiple of 3. For the various sizes, I recommend leaving the middle 45 (51, 60, 69, 75) sts unworked if you plan to add sleeves, but I encourage you to customize this to your preference. 
  5. If you do not want to add sleeves, I recommend you leave your arm holes slightly looser for comfort.

You now have a duster vest completed! Proceed to “Adding a Collar” or “Adding Sleeves” if you desire, or you can choose to leave your vest as-is!

Adding a Collar 

If you desire, you have the option to add a collar to your duster! Follow the instructions below to do so.

  1. First, identify the front edges of the duster where the collar will be added. This should extend along approximately half of panel 1, across the seam you applied to attach the panels, and across approximately half of panel 2. 
  2. At the front, you should have one corner beginning with a ch 3, and the other corner should have 3 dc sts. Attach your yarn to the front corner that does not have the ch 3 space.
  3. If you are worked in a color pattern for your panels, you can simply continue to work in the same pattern you were using. Since I ended with 3 rows of color A on my panels, I began with color B on the collar. 
  4. Row 1: ch 3, then work 3 dc in the space between 3 dc sets from the previous row. Continue working 3 dc sts into the spaces between sets of dc sts from the previous row. When you reach your seam, you will either: A) place 1 set of 3 dc into the decorative seam as pictured below or B) continue on to the next panel if your seam does not provide space for additional sts. Work your final 3 dc sts into the previous row’s turning ch at the end of the row.
  5. Row 2: ch 3 to turn. Work 3 dc into each space between previous sets of dc sts from the row below. Your final 3 dc sts will be worked into the turning ch from the previous row.
  6. Repeat row 2 until you have completed 13 rows on the collar, or until the collar is your desired width. If you want your collar wider, this will increase the amount of yarn required. 

Adding Sleeves 

You also have the option to add sleeves to your duster if you would like! Follow the instructions below to do so.

  1. Make sure your stitch count around the arm opening is a multiple of 3. You will join with color A in the “armpit” of your sleeve to begin.
  2. Round 1: ch 3 (counts as your first dc), then dc twice in the first stitch. Skip over 2 sts, and dc 3 times in the third st. Continue to skip over 2 sts, then work 3 dc sts into the third st around your arm opening. When you reach the end, slip stitch into the top ch of your starting ch 3 to close the round.
  3. Note: if you started with a foundation chain instead of fhdc, you can either work into sts from your starting ch or work in the space between dc clusters from your first row on your panel, whichever look you prefer.
  4. Round 2: turn and ch 3 (counts as your first dc). Work 2 more dc sts into the space between dc sts from the previous round. Then, work 3 dc sts into every space between dc sets from the previous round 
  5. Repeat round 2 until sleeves are your desired length, changing directions each round. Change colors as desired if you are following a color pattern. 

I hope you enjoyed this pattern and love the cardigan or duster you made! I would love to see pictures of your finished pieces. If you share on social media, please use the tag #DasypusDuster and tag me in your photos. Feel free to check out my website for more of my work, and for information on where you can purchase my patterns. A fully-formatted PDF of this pattern will be available for purchase soon.

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