Author:
Courtney Clark

Courtney Clark is the designer and maker behind Tinderbox. She is also a teacher, a dog mom and a lover of travel. Courtney lives in British Columbia, Canada and when she’s not crocheting you can find her enjoying the great outdoors with her pup, Boomer!

Charlie Raglan Sweater Crochet Pattern

Patterns/DIY
11/30/2018

Hello makers!

It’s Courtney the crochet designer behind Tinderbox. I’m so excited to be sharing my first ever raglan sweater pattern with you!

What’s a Tinderbox, you ask? A Tinderbox is a little box that contains the components to make fire. My Tinderbox is filled with hooks, yarn, notions, and poorly drawn sketches. I began selling products at markets and in stores but have transitioned into designing, as that is where my true passion lies.

My designs are intended to be simple, feminine, and beginner friendly for the most part. I like using stitches that you may not have seen or tried before. The Charlie Raglan uses a stitch that is a fun spin on a double crochet – the linked double crochet stitch.

I hope you enjoy making this sweater as much as I did designing it! Happy making!


Materials


6.5mm crochet hook
320m (350, 380, 410) of each colour A and colour B (total 640m, 700, 760, 820) bulky weight (5) yarn, preferably single ply/roving or any yarn to achieve gauge
Yarn needle

Legend

CH: Chain
HDC: Half double crochet
FPHDC: Front post half double crochet
BPHDC: Back post half double crochet
ST: Stitch
LDC: Linked double crochet

Size

Sizes based on bust/chest measurement

S (34 inches)
M (35-38 inches)
L (39-42 inches)
XL (43-46 inches)

Gauge

8 stitches x 5 rows in LDC in a 3 inch x 3 inch square
If your gauge swatch is too small try using a larger hook or slightly thicker yarn. If your gauge swatch is too big try using a smaller hook or slightly thinner yarn.

Required skills

Slip knot
Chain
Back bumps
Slip stitch
Half double crochet
Linked double crochet
Fastening off
Weaving in ends

Notes

Sizes are noted as follows: S (M, L, XL) throughout the pattern.
For random stripes make the following LDC rows in colour B 1-5, 8, 10-12, 18, 19, 21-24, 27-29, 31, and 35. All HDC rows are in colour A.
For a tutorial on how to create the linked double crochet stitch (LDC) click here.

Step 1:
Colour A: CH 64 (70, 76, 82). Join with a SL ST to the first CH.

Step 2:
CH 2. HDC into the back bumps of each CH around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC. 64 (70, 76, 82) HDCs.

Step 3:
CH 2. *FPHDC, BPHDC* around. 64 (70, 76, 82) STs.

Step 4:
Repeat Step 3.

Step 5:
Colour B. CH 3. LDC into first 10 (11, 12, 13) STs. (LDC, CH1, LDC) into next ST, LDC into next 10 (11, 12, 13) STs. (LDC, CH1, LDC) into next ST. LDC into next 20 (22, 24, 26) STs. (LDC, CH1, LDC) into next ST. LDC into next 10 (11, 12, 13) STs. (LDC, CH1, LDC) into next ST. LDC into last 10 (11, 12, 13) STs. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first LDC. 68 (74, 80, 86) LDCs and 4 CHs.

Step 6:
CH 3. LDC into each LDC and (LDC, CH1, LDC) into each CH1 space around. 76 (82, 88, 94) LDCs and 4 CHs.

Step 7:
Repeat step six 9 (10, 11, 12) times. You should have a total of 11 (12, 13, 14) rows of LDCs. 148 (162, 176, 190)

Step 8:
CH 3. LDC into each LDC until you get to the first CH 1 space. 1 LDC into CH 1 space. Now you are making the sleeve holes. The next LDC goes into the next CH 1 space, skipping over the stitches in between (see 2 photos below). LDC into each LDC until you reach the third CH 1 space. 1 LDC into CH 1 space. The next LDC goes into the next CH 1 space, skipping over the stitches in between. LDC in each LDC until the end of the round. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first stitch.  88 (96, 104, 112)

Step 9:
CH 3. LDC around. Join with a SL ST. 88 (96, 104, 112)

Step 10:
Repeat step 9 until you have 35 rows of LDCs in total.

Step 11:
CH 2. HDC around. Join with a SL ST.

Step 12:
CH 2. *FPHDC, BPHDC* around.

Step 13:
Repeat step 12. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Note: Steps 14 through 22 are to be repeated twice, once for each sleeve following the same striping pattern as the body.

Step 14:
Attach yarn to the CH 1 space on one side of the armpit. CH 3. Make sure your stitches are going in the correct direction here so your right/wrong sides stay the same. 1LDC into CH 1 space, LDC in each stitch around, 1 LDC into CH 1 space at the end. Join with a SL ST. 34 (37, 40, 43)

Note: If you prefer straight sleeves proceed without the decreases, if you prefer a looser sleeve at the top begin the decreases around the elbow instead of from the top.

Step 15:
CH 3. LDC2tog then LDC into each stitch around. Join with a SL ST.

Step 16:
CH 3. LDC around. Join with a SL ST.

Step 17:
CH 3. LDC around to the last two stitches, LDC2tog. Join with a SL ST.

Step 18:
Repeat steps 16, 15, 16, 17 until your sleeve is the same number of rows as the body prior to the ribbing. For best results stop doing the ribbing a row early if you have an even number of stitches in the round. 22 (26, 30, 34) is the optimum stitch count, but any even number will work.

Step 19:
CH 2. HDC around. Join with a SL ST.

Step 20:
CH 2. *FPHDC, BPHDC* around

Step 21:
Repeat Step 20.

Step 22:
Fasten off, weave in ends. Repeat for second sleeve.

Seam together the gaps up the back and inside of the arms. My preferred seaming method is the mattress stitch up the inside, it ends up totally hidden.

I hope that you enjoyed making this sweater and enjoy wearing it even more. I know I’ll be cozied up with a tea next to a fire snuggled in my Charlie raglan many times this winter.

If you’re interested in seeing what other designs I am cooking up you can visit my website or check me out on Instagram.

Keep it cozy friends!

Courtney

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