Author:
Sarah Summers

Sarah is the maker and designer behind The Plush Pineapple. She is a wife of thirteen years to her college sweetheart and momma to two awesome kiddos. When she is not crocheting, designing, or blogging, you can probably find her soaking up the sun or eating seafood. Her goal as a designer is that love, sunshine, and pineapples make their way into the hearts and homes of all who make her designs.

Pineapple Crown Scarf Crochet Pattern by Sarah Summers

11/24/2020

BRRR!  I don't know where you are at in the world, but here where I am, it is getting COLD!  And I'm not talking about light jacket weather.  I am talking about dress-in-layers, run-from-car-to-building, why-did-people-settle-this-land COLD!


Hello, THN Makers!  Sarah from A Plush Pineapple here, and it's great to be back sharing another pattern with all of you!  Since these frigid temperatures are rapidly approaching, I decided to design a good cozy scarf that I can wrap around my neck and face to keep out the brisk wind.  The Pineapple Crown Scarf has a tubular construction so that it provides an extra layer of warmth.  I also developed a unique cabling design that is reminiscent of pineapples in order to stay true to my summer-lovin' roots.  You can also choose to finish the scarf with a pom on each end or seam it up to create an infinity loop scarf!


I had the opportunity to design this scarf with The Hook Nook Small Stuff in the color Foggy Morning.  It is a wonderful DK weight that provides just the right amount of drape and sheen for this project.  It is very soft and enjoyable to work with.  With all of the colors that this line of yarn comes in, I think it would also be fabulous to color block sections of the scarf.  Hmmm, now I might just have to make another one!

You can find the yarn bundle that includes all the yarn needed for this project on the THN website.


I hope that you will enjoy making this scarf as much as I enjoyed designing it.  For me, it's my go-to scarf as I'm running out the door each day to face the freezing weather.  There's nothing that keeps you warm like being wrapped up in handmade goodness!  

Supply List


DK (3) weight yarn approximately 1,230 yards


Recommended:  Small Stuff by The Hook Nook


US H/8 5.0mm Crochet Hook


Yarn Needle


Stitch markers


Scissors


2 Faux fur pompoms (optional)

Key


BPDC – Back post double crochet

BPTR – Back post treble crochet


CH – Chain


DC – Double crochet


HDC – Half double crochet


FPDC – Front post double crochet


FPTR – Front post treble crochet


PM – Place marker


TR – Treble crochet


YO – yarn over


Pattern


Leaving approximately a 20” (50 cm) tail, CH 73.

Row 1:  Working in the back bump of the CH, HDC in 2nd stitch from hook and in every CH across.  (72)


Row 2:  CH 1, turn, HDC in each stitch across.  (72)


Row 3-5:  Repeat Row 2.


Row 6:  CH 1, turn, HDC 11, *Count 2 stitches forward, PM, work a FPTR around the HDC post on Row 4 that is directly underneath the stitch marker, FPTR around the next two HDC posts on Row 4, before continuing be sure you are only leaving 3 stitches unworked on the main row to account for the 3 FPTR into Row 4, HDC directly behind the last FPTR and in the next 7 HDC, count 2 stitches back, PM, work a FPTR around the HDC post on Row 4 that is directly underneath the stitch marker, FPTR around the next two HDC posts on Row 4, before continuing be sure you are only leaving 3 stitches unworked on the main row to account for the 3 FPTR into Row 4,*  HDC 22, repeat from * to *, HDC 11.  (72)

***From this point forward, any time you work the FPTR or BPTR, check the main row to be sure that only 3 stitches are left unworked before continuing, or the stitch count for that row will be off.***

Row 7:  CH 1, turn, HDC 10, *SK 1, BPTR around each TR post from the previous row, HDC directly in front of the last BPTR and in the next 8 HDC, HDC in the top of the first TR post from the previous row, BPTR around each TR post from the previous row,* HDC 20, repeat from * to *, HDC 10.  (72)


Row 8:  CH 1, turn, HDC 9, *SK 1, FPTR around each TR post from the previous row, HDC directly behind the last FPTR and in the next 10 HDC, HDC in the top of the first TR post from the previous row, FPTR around each TR post from the previous row,* HDC 18, repeat from * to *, HDC 9.  (72)


Row 9:  CH 1, turn, HDC 8, *SK 1, BPTR around each TR post from the previous row, HDC directly in front of the last BPTR and in the next 12 HDC, HDC in the top of the first TR post from the previous row, BPTR around each TR post from the previous row,* HDC 16, repeat from * to *, HDC 8.  (72)

*Note that the TR stitches change to DC stitches in this section.*

Row 11:  CH 1, turn, HDC 8, *BPDC around each DC post from the previous row, HDC 14, BPDC around each DC post from the previous row,* HDC 16, repeat from * to *, HDC 8.  (72)


Row 12-13:  Repeat Row 11 using FPDC on Row 12 and BPDC on Row 13.

*Note that the DC stitches change back to TR stitches in this section.*

Row 14:  CH 1, turn, HDC 8, HDC in the top of the first DC post from the previous row, *FPTR around each DC post from the previous row, 12 HDC, SK 1, FPTR around each DC post from the previous row,* HDC directly behind the last FPTR and in the next 16, HDC in the top of the first DC post from the previous row, repeat from * to *, HDC directly behind the last FPTR and in the next 8.  (72)


Row 15:  CH 1, turn, HDC 9, HDC in the top of the first TR post from the previous row, *BPTR around each TR post from the previous row, 10 HDC, SK 1, BPTR around each TR post from the previous row,* HDC directly behind the last BPTR and in the next 18, HDC in the top of the first TR post from the previous row, repeat from * to *, HDC directly behind the last BPTR and in the next 9.  (72)


Row 16:  CH 1, turn, HDC 10, HDC in the top of the first TR post from the previous row, *FPTR around each TR post from the previous row, 8 HDC, SK 1, FPTR around each TR post from the previous row,* HDC directly behind the last FPTR and in the next 20, HDC in the top of the first TR post from the previous row, repeat from * to *, HDC directly behind the last FPTR and in the next 10.  (72)


Row 17:  CH 1, turn, HDC 11, HDC in the top of the first TR post from the previous row, *BPTR around each TR post from the previous row, 6 HDC, SK 1, BPTR around each TR post from the previous row,* HDC directly behind the last BPTR and in the next 22, HDC in the top of the first TR post from the previous row, repeat from * to *, HDC directly behind the last BPTR and in the next 11.  (72)


Row 18:  CH 1, turn, HDC 12, HDC in the top of the first TR post from the previous row, *FPTR around each TR post from the previous row, 4 HDC, SK 1, FPTR around each TR post from the previous row,* HDC directly behind the last FPTR and in the next 24, HDC in the top of the first TR post from the previous row, repeat from * to *, HDC directly behind the last FPTR and in the next 12.  (72)  

*Note that the TR stitches change to DC stitches in this row.*


Row 19:  CH 1, turn, HDC 13, *BPDC around each TR post from the previous row, HDC 4, BPDC around each TR post from the previous row,* HDC 26, repeat from * to *, HDC 13.  (72)


Row 20:  CH 1, turn, HDC 13, *FPDC around each DC post from the previous row, HDC 4, FPDC around each DC post from the previous row,* HDC 26, repeat from * to *, HDC 13.  (72)

*Note that the DC stitches change back to TR stitches in this section.*

Row 21:  CH 1, turn, HDC 12, *SK 1, BPTR around each DC post from the previous row, HDC directly in front of the last BPTR and in the next 4 HDC, HDC in the top of the first DC post from the previous row, BPTR around each DC post from the previous row,* HDC 24, repeat from * to *, HDC 12.  (72)



Row 22:  CH 1, turn, HDC 11, *SK 1, FPTR around each TR post from the previous row, HDC directly behind the last FPTR and in the next 6 HDC, HDC in the top of the first TR post from the previous row, FPTR around each TR post from the previous row,* HDC 22, repeat from * to *, HDC 11.  (72)

From here you will go back and repeat Rows 7-22 a total of eight more times (for a total of nine).  Length should measure about 51” (130 cm).  If more length is desired, continue to repeat rows 7-22 until desired length is reached.


Row 23-33:  Repeat Rows 7-17.


Rows 34-37:  Repeat Row 2.


Length should measure about 61” (155 cm).

Leaving approximately a 75” (190.5 cm) tail, fasten off.  Weave in all ends on the inside of the scarf.  (Leave the beginning tail and ending tail for seaming and finishing.)  


Seaming


Lay the scarf wrong side up.  Fold the outside edges toward the center to meet in the middle.  Thread the long tail onto your tapestry needle.  Use the mattress stitch to seam the scarf into a tube.  Be sure to line up the rows as you go.


Finishing


When you reach the end of the tube, use a basting stitch to weave the remaining tail through the top of each stitch around the opening.  Pull tight to cinch the end closed.  Weave the tail through opposite sides of the opening several times to secure.  Do not cut yarn.


Thread the beginning tail onto your tapestry needle and repeat this process for the other end.


Using the remaining tails, attach a faux fur pompom to each end.


Weave in all remaining ends.

I hope you enjoy your new scarf!  If you choose to share pictures of your scarf on social media, be sure to tag me @aplushpineapple on Instagram  and Facebook so I can see!  You can find more of my crochet designs on my website where you can also subscribe to my newsletter to stay up to date on my newest releases.  I hope to see you over there!


Much love, sunshine, and pineapples,


Sarah

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